Accessory & Attachment Reference Guide

Here you will find a quick reference guide to all the accessories and attachments I have used with my Dremel 4000. The Dremel website provides only dry official info about each. My intent is to give more of a real-world perspective and describe how I use the accessories for different projects, how well they work for their intended and unintended uses, and any other tidbits of useful info I’ve come by during my work.

(Some good info about the different categories of accessories can be found in this blog post from Blue Roof Designs.)

In no particular order:

Dremel 191 high speed cutter

The Dremel 191 high speed cutter. The bit is the same diameter as the shank – 1/8″ (3.2mm). The cutter does a good job of chewing through soft woods, though I have yet to use it on anything else. My most common use for this accessory is to remove material left over between pre-drilled holes when I’m trying to cut out an internal portion of something.

Update: As I’ve written in this post, I have now used this accessory on a clay pot, as a result of which I no longer have a 191 high speed cutter.

Dremel 150 drill bit

The Dremel 150 drill bit is perhaps the least exciting of the accessories. It is a very average drill bit, 1/8″ (3.2mm) in diameter, suitable for working with wood and soft metals. That said, it has been an essential part of all my projects so far. I’ve been using it mostly for drilling pilot holes that were then enlarged by the 191 cutter, or for marking a line of cut before using cut-off wheels. If your Dremel tool didn’t come with one, or you need a replacement, you can buy them individually or (and this is probably much more useful) as part of a drill bit kit or a larger 160-piece accessory kit.

Update: As described here, the 150 drill bit snapped while trying to drill through 4mm plywood. It is not that the bit is poorly made, but rather that, being a general-purpose bit, it lacks a brad point on its tip, which would have allowed it to dig into the wood and stay on point. I have since purchased a wood-specific drill bit (non-Dremel), and have found it to perform infinitely better when drilling plywood and solid wood than the 150 ever did.

Dremel 432 & 408 sanding bands & 407 drum

Dremel 407 sanding drum & mandrel with 408 60-grit & 432 120-grit sanding bands. These accessories have been truly indispensable. The rough 60-grit bands remove soft wood very aggressively, and one must be careful not to go too far. I usually leave ~1mm before I reach the edge of the final shape and switch to the smoother 120-grit band for the final shaping. I find that when using either band, it is very important to move the rotary tool side-to-side instead of back and forth (i.e. perpendicular to the axis of rotation, not along it), because otherwise it’s very easy to sand an unexpectedly deep groove into the material.

The 407 drum & mandrel that came with my Dremel 4000-1/45 are of the screw-down variety, meaning that I need to use the included screwdriver/wrench to swap the sanding bands. Getting the EZ407SA EZ Drum Mandrel is highly recommended – it can be purchased individually or as part of the EZ Lock / EZ Drum kit.

Dremel 411 & 413 sanding discs

Dremel 4000 - How to use sanding discs

Dremel 411 & 413 sanding discs. Very simply, small discs of sandpaper with a hole through the centre. These come in grit 180 and 240 (with grit 220 – part # 412 – also available) for finer, gentler sanding than that done by the sanding bands above. The hole allows the discs to be attached to the 402 mandrel, as shown in the photo, and this attachment method is, to me, their biggest shortcoming. The protruding screw head prevents the discs from being used flush agains a surface. Instead, one must position the Dremel tool at an angle and use a portion of the disc, relying on its flexibility to do the work as shown in the sketch on the right.

This is the great advantage of the EZ Lock versions of the sanding discs – they do not have anything protruding on their business side and can be used flush agains a surface. They are also easier to change and, Dremel claims, last two times longer. Of course, the EZ Lock sanding discs are also more expensive.

Another thing to keep in mind is that the discs’ extreme flexibility makes them behave in a particular way on softwood – as I wrote in my of my first posts, they’ll wear away the softer material quickly, but will have less impact on the harder “veins”. The final result – a wavy texture – can actually be quite appealing, but may not be suitable every time. If I don’t want the wavy effect, I use the very hard 932 grinding stone for the final finishing of my wooden pieces.

An additional undocumented use for the sanding discs is to use their edges to cut through very soft materials. This can yield a very thin cut if one is careful, but wears away the discs at an extremely fast rate (that’s how the top right sanding disc in the picture above got to be so small). Expect to smell burning paper 🙂

Standard Dremel sanding discs can be bought in packs of 36: 411 (180 grit, coarse), 412 (220 grit, medium) & 413 (240 grit, fine). The corresponding EZ Lock part numbers come, confusingly, in different grits: EZ411SA (60 grit, very coarse), EZ412SA (120 grit, coarse) & EZ413SA (240 grit, fine). You also need the 402 mandrel for the regular discs, or the EZ402 EZ Lock mandrel for the EZ Lock discs. Alternatively, Dremel offers kits 686-01 and EZ686-01 that include regular or EZ Lock sanding discs, respectively.

Dremel 932 & 85422 grinding stones

Dremel 932 aluminum oxide grinding stone (orange cylinder) & 85422 silicon carbide grinding stone (green wheel). I have yet to use either of these accessories for their intended purpose of grinding metals (932) or ceramics and masonry (85422). However, I have used both on wood. As detailed in a few posts, I use the 932 cylinder to put finishing touches on things made out of softwood. Being much more solid than sanding discs or bands, it finishes the surface evenly without distinguishing between the harder “veins” and the softer parts in between. I also use it to smooth down sharp edges. However, it does not remove a lot of material, so actual shaping must be done with something more aggressive.

I’ve only used the 85422 grinding stone once so far, on plywood, and it appears to be more aggressive than the 932. So far, I’ve found the latter’s cylindrical shape more useful overall, but your mileage may vary.

The two grinding stones can be purchased individually through the links above, or together with 29 other sanding / grinding accessories in the 686-01 kit.

Dremel 414 & 422 polishing wheels

Dremel 414 felt polishing wheel and 422 polishing tip. These small accessories are made of hard-packed felt and are meant for polishing metals and plastics. In my fork polishing test, the 414 wheel, used with the 421 polishing compound, gave the shiniest and smoothest finish of the 4 different accessories I tested. To use the felt wheel with the 421 compound, I simply started up the Dremel and then gently touched the spinning wheel to the surface of the polishing compound to coat it more or less evenly. Briefly polishing a small part of a fork handle left the 414 wheel black with whatever it was that came off the metal, plus the 421 compound, so it is now limited to doing similar sort of work in the future. Of course, being very mild and non-abrasive, these pieces of felt won’t do much to a very rough surface, and will have to be preceded by something more aggressive. Their best use, in my mind, would be in restoring an antique metal object, especially one with small and intricate surfaces, to a nice lustrous shine.

I have also used the 414 polishing wheel, without the 421 compound, on wood and plywood, and found that it improved the appearance of the surface, making it lighter and cleaner by removing dirt and other residue.

In addition to being sold individually in packs of 6, these two polishing accessories are available as part of the 684-01 Clean & Polish kit, which also includes a jar of the 421 polishing compound.

Dremel EZ456 cut-off wheel

Dremel 4000 blueprint - cutting with EZ456

As I have yet to use the EZ456 1-1/2″ EZ Lock cut-off wheels on metal, I can only write about what they are not good at: cutting wood. They can do so in a pinch, but it’s not a pleasant process. The wood will smoke and the cut will be charred. To avoid actually setting things on fire, I don’t do one continuous cut but go back and forth a bit, allowing the wood and the cut-off wheel to cool and letting the smouldering sawdust drop out of the cut.

More importantly, it must be kept in mind that these wheels are really designed for short cuts, such as trimming off bolts, cutting through padlock shackles or – something Dremel mentions a lot for some reason – re-slotting stripped screw heads. Whether working with wood or metal, the cut-off wheels will not do a good job with longer cuts, nor are they, obviously, suited for intricate cutting. This is an accessory for fast, aggressive and brief cuts.

Among other reasons, any extensive cuts with the EZ456 wheels, or any cut-off wheels for that matter, will be hampered by the rotary tool’s geometry, as shown on the right. The diameter of the wheels is smaller than that of the Dremel 4000, meaning that only cuts within a few inches of easily accessible edges are not hampered by the tool’s body. Internal cuts can be made with the tool held at an angle, though this is difficult to do well and, obviously, won’t give you a perpendicular cut. Two ways to make things easier involve using either the 225 flex shaft or the 575 right-angle attachment. The diameter of the flex shaft’s grip or the 575’s perpendicular part is smaller than the 4000’s, placing the wheel’s axis closer, though still not very close, to the material it’s cutting.

All in all, my woodworking projects simply don’t give these metal cut-off wheels a suitable challenge. While they don’t perform well in their unintended uses, I have no reason to doubt their efficiency in doing what they were made to do – make short cuts in metal. EZ456 cut-off wheels can be purchased as a pack of 5 wheels, as 5 wheels plus the EZ402 EZ Lock mandrel in the EZ406 starter kit, or as part of the EZ688-01 EZ Lock cutting kit.

Dremel 511 abrasive buff

Dremel 511E EZ Lock finishing abrasive buff. My 4000-1/45 kit came with one of these buffs. Since the product code 511E refers to a two-pack of buffs, one 180-grit and one 280-grit, I have no way of telling whether mine is the coarse or the medium version. (Fine 320-grit EZ Lock buffs are also available as 512E.) The buff in my kit (probably 180-grit) did a very decent job of finishing various wood pieces, such as the very first ring I made. It can be thought of as mild, spongy sandpaper, and is quite useful for smoothing cut edges, removing tiny splinters, and generally cleaning up a wooden surface (including erasing pencil marks). On plywood, some caution is needed, as the buff can splinter the material’s edges if applied perpendicularly to them.

In the only instance I used it on metal, the 511E buff gave a very attractive brushed finish to a stainless steel fork handle, while smoothing away or masking tiny scratches and scrapes on its surface.

The downside of the abrasive buff has been its longevity or, rather, lack thereof. This accessory cannot be used above 15,000 rpm, but even at that speed a small number of its tiny bristles gets ejected by the centrifugal force. Upon contact with another material, especially edges and corners, the ejection rate increases and, on top of that, the bristles begin to break off at the point of contact. My 511E buff, which has seen moderate use, is now half its former size that is shown in the photo. The take-home message, then, is that this is a rather useful accessory, but one that should be thought of as disposable, in the same category as sanding discs or cut-off wheels.

Unlike the EZ Lock cut-off wheels, the 511 finishing buffs can be used with both the EZ402 EZ Lock mandrel and the screw-down 402 mandrel. The buffs are available as a set of one 180-grit and one 280-grit or a two-pack of 320-grit buffs. All three grits can be found in the EZ684-01 kit, while individual buffs are also included in the EZ686-01 and 686-01 kits.

Coming at some point in the future:

  • 401, 402 & EZ402 mandrels
  • 425 emory impregnated polishing wheel
  • 403 nylon bristle brush
  • 421 polishing compound
  • 225 flex shaft attachment


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  3. vgpal

    Very useful comments
    when i bought my dremel 4000 it came with abox of acessories with no instructions on how or where to use them
    For eg nowhere does dremel show how to use the simple sanding discs

  4. Ray Senior

    Thanks for this valuable information. As a new user, I am trying to get as much info from people
    Like you so that I can proceed with dome background knowledge. I have a 3000 machine.

      • kalli

        how do you attach or put back on the sandpaper 60 grit on the rod my has worn out and i need to put another in i already busted one trying to put it back on.

      • drnik2k5

        If you are talking about the 407 mandrel, then you need to loosen the screw at the end. This will allow you to slide the worn out sanding band off the mandrel and then put a new one on. Be sure to re-tighten the screw afterwards. The tiny wrench included with Dremel kits has a screwdriver just for this purpose at the other end.

        Hope this helps.

  5. Derek


    I’m very new to DIY and have the Dremel Multi Max. I mainly use it for sanding down metal.

    I bought a wire brush attachment so I could reach into tough corners where the Dremel pad couldn’t reach.

    It unfortunately doesn’t fit even though I was told it would.

    Is there a Dremel version of a wire brush or is there another attachment that might work better to get into those tough to sand areas?

    I enjoyed your article
    Sure hope you can help.



    • drnik2k5

      Thanks for writing, Derek!

      While I’m not very familiar with the Multi-Max, I don’t see any wire brush attachments for it. Is it possible that the wire brush is for a Dremel rotary tool? If you have the part number for the accessory, you can look it up on to see its intended uses. I also see that there is a new MM730 Contour Sanding accessory for the Multi-Max that should be available next month – might that suit your needs?

      Good luck!


  6. andrew ismail

    Bought the dremel4000 only tried the wood cutting wheel.just cannot get the wheel to to click in.not pulling down far enuff it wont let if blade to thick.but came with kid very please

    • drnik2k5

      Hi Andrew,

      I recall the EZ Lock / SpeedClick mandrel’s spring being pretty stiff at the beginning. It gets better over time, though. Try a couple of things: install the mandrel in the rotary tool first, and then try to attach the cutting wheel. Or the opposite – try to click in the cutting wheel first (although this is more difficult as the mandrel is tough to hold onto). If you have any good lubricant, put a drop on the mandrel’s head and see if that helps. If you have any other EZ Lock / SpeedClick accessories, such as cut-off wheels, give them a try too – they might be slightly easier to install in a new mandrel than the wood cutting wheel. Regardless, once you’ve pushed/pulled the mandrel head as far down as it will go, start rotating the cutting wheel – it might just be able to slide under the flanges, and then it will be easy to rotate it the full 90 degrees for it to click in.

      Finally, if all else fails, exchange the mandrel for a new one and test the new one at the shop.

      Best of luck



    the people tahat work for you on a contract basis are idiots Especially you customer Rep. Jammie. promised me 5 times to send a catalog. I DID NOT RECIEVE ANY. WHY DO THESE EMPLOYEES GET PAID AT ALL?????

  8. Brian Wilkins

    The grooves in my ancient golf irons need a bit of revitalising. I’d very much appreciate some advice as to whether there is a Dremel accessory that could be adapted for this.

    • Nikita

      Hi Brian,

      If by “revitalising” you mean mostly cleaning, then polishing brushes are probably the tool for you. Rubber polishing tips, especially the 463, might also come in handy. If you are talking more about deepening and shaping the worn out grooves, though, you can think about carefully using e.g. a grinding wheel or cutoff wheels, but I hereby absolve myself of any responsibility for the potential damage to the clubs 🙂

      • bwilkins688

        —Dear Nikita;

        Many thanks for this reply. As a result I think I now know what I need and where to source it.

        Kindest regards from New Zealand

        Brian Wilkins– Original Message —– From: The Dremel Amateur To: Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2014 12:02 AM Subject: [New comment] Accessory & Attachment Reference Guide

        Nikita commented: “Hi Brian, If by “revitalising” you mean mostly cleaning, then polishing brushes are probably the tool for you. Rubber polishing tips, especially the 463, might also come in handy. If you are talking more about deepening and shaping the worn out grooves, “

  9. Rags

    Thank you for all the nice info that you have shared, Nikita. Any idea if I can use a larger diameter cut off wheels than what dremel provides ? I want to cut thicker plywood but I find the wheels not sufficient for a single cut.

    • Nikita

      I have not done something like that myself. My gut feeling is that if the wheels are slightly larger than the stock Dremel ones, there should not be any problem. Much larger, however, and the tool will begin to struggle to produce sufficient torque.

      I have a draft for an article tentatively titled “How to use a Dremel rotary tool as a saw”, and the short version of the answer is “Don’t”. Personally, I reach for a handsaw whenever I need to cut more that a centimetre or two.

      • Nathan

        Yes, telling the difference between the two 511E abrasive buffs is a pain. Hopefully someone out there can tell us which is which, one is light, another is dark. (512E is easy – its purple)
        However I have another issue the sanding discs (I received all these accessories with my Dremel 4000) 411, 412, 413.
        411 has 180 on the back so obviously it is the 180 grit, one other has blue X’s on the back, and the other has green X’s on the back.
        When I’m next down at the hardware store, I’ll see if I can find out.

      • supercarrot

        this reply is for nathan and anyone else who googles this quandary
        just by chance, i saw a 220 listed on the back of one of the green discs, so i searched the other colors and managed to find a 180 on one of the red discs, and then narrowed the last (blue) down to 240 (this was the 3rd grit listed on a different small accessories pack, which just so happened to also have the blue x’s for 240, so i’m pretty confident that’s what it is.)


  10. Cliona

    Hi-I have had problems using my Dremel 4000 as a drill using the Dremel stand/workstation. Although I have a number of different sized Dremel collets, the drill bits (which are also Dremel) don’t seem to fit and I wonder if I’m missing a step or fitting?

  11. cliona

    Hi-Thanks for the prompt reply. That’s what I couldn’t figure out-all are Dremel and all other accessories fit perfectly but somehow the drill bits don’t seem to fit any of the collets that I have. Have also tried the chuck but the same thing happens-the drill bit remains loose in either housing and I’m wondering if I’m missing a step or have to put something else on? I have taken off the plastic ring collar in order to sit the Dremel into the stand/work station and wondering was that it? Thanks for the links!

    • Nikita

      While I haven’t used the work station, I can say that removing the collar (#23 in this diagram should have no effect on the collet or chuck. There is nothing special about the drill bits, either, so if all other accessories work and the bits don’t, it’s a mystery to me. All I can do is repeat my earlier advice to pick the right collet for the drill bit’s shank size and tighten the collet nut or the chuck really well (by hand is not good enough – use one of the tools provided).
      Once you figure out the problem, please share your findings!

  12. Cliona

    All sorted-thank you do much for your help! Was all down to my own sloppiness-didn’t realise the wrench was as important as it was and had been trying to tighten by hand. I checked all the collet sizes accurately and matched them to the relevant drill bit and then tightened as much as I could using wrench and, hey presto, success! Thanks again-you’re a life-saver!

  13. Sam

    Thank you for this great blog. I’m getting ready to buy this, mainly for craft and woodwork use, plus some PCB drilling (for which I want the workstation). The 4000 4/65 is some 12% costlier than 4000 1/45. Which is the better buy?

    • Nikita

      Hi Sam and thanks for reading. This is a bit of a tricky question – only you will know the answer, and you will know it a couple of months after buying the tool.
      Comparing the two kits, I would focus on the attachments, not the accessories – i.e. the “4” vs. “1”. I bought the 1/45 version, and have since added the line & circle cutter and the shaping platform, both of which are included with the 4/65. On the other hand, I’ve had no need for the detail grip, and never use the flexible shaft. The line & circle cutter doesn’t get as much use as I’d anticipated either. Based on all this, I would recommend getting the smaller kit and then gradually expanding it when you have a clearer idea of what you are missing.

  14. Stephen

    Just picked up the 4000 today and found your blog invaluable in getting to know all the accessories. Many thanks and keep the info coming!

  15. Ashley

    You talked about difficulty cutting wood with the Dremel. Have you found an attachment that will do a better job and not cause it to smoke or char? I am having the same problems.

  16. Munish Dhingra

    I require a wood cutting Wheel attachment.
    Please guide me from where I can get?
    Manisha Dhingra
    New Delhi
    mobile: +91 9810659199

    • Nikita

      Hi and thanks for writing.
      Unfortunately, I don’t have any info about regional retailers that carry Dremel tools and accessories. You can always look for such products on global sites such as eBay.
      Good luck

  17. The Bearded Wonder

    Nikita, I have a 4200, and I’m not 100% sure where everything goes in the carrying case. Do you have any idea how to store everything? The case is designed so that there is a place for everything, but they don’t do a good job of explaining it…

    • Nikita

      Frankly, I don’t find the cases all that well designed. I have a soft case, but have read the same about the hard plastic ones as well. The soft case has three “compartments” (that’s a generous description – there are just two foldable soft dividers) – I put the tool itself into one and the wound cord in the other. The third holds the box with accessories and all the attachments I have. The flexshaft gets rolled up and placed on top of everything. It sounds far more organized that it actually is. When I work, I tend to take everything out of the case as it’s definitely not well made for easy access to the things therein.

      If you have a permanent workbench, your best bet might be to build a small shelf to hold everything conveniently. There may also be some third-party cases for rotary tools like the Dremel, although I haven’t explored this.

      Good luck!

      • The Bearded Wonder

        yeah, I kind of have the same sentiment. Great idea, bad execution. Everything fits in the case (as far as I can tell), but there are some compartments or spots (mainly in the lid) that are shown as being designated for a certain component, but I can’t tell which component they are referring to. Ah well, I just wondered if anyone else was having the same issue; sounds like it’s not just me. I’ll probably look into a third party case like you suggested…

  18. Mari

    I have a 200 series dremel. Bought drill bits 1/32 n up only to find out it doesn’t hold them ? It will hold the 1/8 n perhaps the 7/64 but the opening doesn’t close completely to hold the tiny drills. Am I missing something ? Is there some special attachment I have to buy?

  19. Kiter

    I find the sandpaper discs too flexible, too. I happen to own a disc cutting set (for soft metals). I took a plastic food container lid that felt nicely flexible, whacked out a few discs matching the size of the sanding discs, marked the centers, stacked ’em up, and drilled center holes the size of the mandrel screw. They fit just like the sanding discs. I slip one of the plastic discs on, then a sanding disc on top of it, and screw the lot down. (Plastic container lids come in varying thicknesses and assorted degrees of flexibility from which to choose, so I imagine one could experiment, depending on the material being sanded. Also, I think you could cut these out, carefully, with an Xacto knife, if a disc cutter isn’t at your disposal.) It doesn’t solve the problem of the protruding screw. That’s definitely problematic–I’d go with the EZ Lock stuff, too, except I already had lots of plain sanding discs, and the EZ Lock stuff is pretty spendy.

    • Nikita

      Great idea! I’d only advise to be sure that the cut-out disks are near-perfectly circular and carefully centred, otherwise there’ll be too much noise and vibration when using them.

  20. Rhu

    Hey man, I have a couple of questions regarding the straight edge cutting guide.

    I need to rout/engrave a ‘trench’ about a mm wide and a mm deep in a piece of relatively soft plastic, the edge of the plastic is curved and I need my cut to follow the edge at a distance of preferably between 1 and 4 mm. Does the straight edge accessory allow one to follow an edge that closely? Does it only allow one to follow a straight edge? Thanks a lot, great blog


    • Nikita

      I don’t have the the straight-edge guide near me at the moment, but the specs for the circle cutter ( specify a minimum circle diameter of 1.9cm. Since the guide ruler is the same in both cases, this implies that the shortest distance between the anchor point (either edge or centre of the circle) and the cutting bit is around 1cm. That sounds about right based on my recollections of using the thing.
      I’ve never tried using it for cutting near curved edges, but suspect that it might not work well unless the curve is gentle and you are cutting on the outside of it. The guide uses a ~5cm straight metal strip to follow the edge of the material (the smaller piece in the product photos), so you can imagine that it wouldn’t play well with sharp curves, particularly if you want to cut inside of the curve.


    my dremel 4200 screw tip doesn’t come of it goes round in round in =circles causing meant to be able to attach the accessories attachments? anyway i can get it off?

  22. justaircompressor

    Thanks for the post – I plan to get some (once they’re in-stock at Amazon) to try them out.
    I’ve had good experience with Norton cBN cup wheels – which in the 5 inch size that we used cost only slightly (ha ha) more (I recall about $700) than these.

  23. Michelle

    I have a lightweight plastic bin that is a bit too wide for the bookcase I want to store it in. I used my Dremel with a sanding band to try and sand off about 1/16 or maybe 1/8 off each side of the lid, which extends out from the bin. I was able to get it down to size but the edge is uneven and a little ‘sharp’ in some spots. Is there a better tip/accessory for grinding off some of the edge while keeping it smooth?

    Thank you for sharing your experience,

    • Bearded Wonder

      If anything, I’d use a router table with a fence, but the most obvious answer is: get a different bin. Unless it’s the bin your great grandfather used in World War II (which you wouldn’t want to risk damaging anyway), the juice just isn’t worth the squeeze on this one..

      • Michelle

        Ok, thank you! As I think about it, I realize the long edge won’t be straight, but I am hoping it could be less ‘wavy’ which I am guessing will need a lighter hand when sending/grinding the edge. I appreciate the idea for smoothing the edge and will look into the suggestions you gave.

        Thank you again 😉

  24. Jeremiah

    Hello I have a Dremel Moto tool model 395 and I lost the nut that fastens down the bits is there an alternative way to fasten down the bits

    • Nikita

      Hi Jeremiah,

      I strongly advise you to get a genuine replacement part rather than try a jury-rigged solution. You don’t want those bits flying out at 20,000rpm!

      While I can’t be absolutely certain, it seems that Dremel’s collet & nut replacement kit ( should be compatible with the 395. Alternatively, consider the chuck (, although it’s not advised for anything other than drilling.


    • Nikita

      Hard to say without more info, but: If you are using the collets and nut, be sure to a). use the right collet for the bit shank size; and b). tighten the nut well with the supplied wrench. If using the chuck, just be sure to tighten well.

  25. Julie Potter

    I bought a Dremel advantage for 10$ and was aware it was discontinued. Before I purchased it I made sure attachments were still available for purchase. What I understood was all attachments are compatible with each device. Is there a piece I need to fit the “mandrel”. My Dremel advantages “collet” has a diameter that is larger so I’m unable to attach anything. What is the piece I need? Menards was NO help at all.

    • Nikita

      Being entirely unfamiliar with the Advantage, I can’t say anything for certain. According to its online manual, it should come with a 1/8″ collet, but can also take a 1/4″ collet. Modern Dremel rotary tool accessories generally have a 1/8″ shank. The fact that they don’t fit suggests that your Advantage came only with the 1/4″ collet.
      You can try buying the collet and nut set ( to see if the new collets fit the Advantage, but that seems like a long shot. Your best bet might be to look specifically for the Advantage 1/8″ collet and/or contact Dremel.

      Good luck!

  26. Marie

    I’ve had my dremel for years now, and have made many things.I’ve learned putting a thick disc behind the flimsy sanding disc helps, give it a shoot! Have fun what ever your doing!!

  27. Donald Urquhart

    The best starter ( like me ) post I’ve read so far
    I would like to know as a beginner more about what speeds to use the different tools

    • Nikita

      Thanks for the comment, Donald!

      I’d love to add more info to the guide, but time simply doesn’t allow it at the moment.

      When it comes to speeds, I’ve found the following to be pretty decent general guidelines:
      – check the max recommended speed for the accessory you are using and do not exceed it. Dremel site used to have this info readily available on each accessory page, but I’m having trouble with it at the moment. You should be able to find it somewhere, though. As I recall, the manual that comes with the tool itself has a lookup chart for this.
      – start closer to the recommended max, rather than the min or average, and back off if necessary
      – low speeds can cause the tool to start rattling and become uncontrollable. Counter-intuitive as it may feel, increase the speed if that happens
      – the more aggressive the nature of the work you are doing, the higher the speed ought to be. i.e. cut, carve and rout at higher speeds, grind & sand at lower, and polish at lower speeds still

  28. Marcie

    I have an attachment for my Dremel tool that is 1/2 x 1/2 metal drum that I use to grind my dogs’ nails. I have large German Shepherds and the sanding discs just won’t last. I am trying to find another attachment just like it but I cannot remember where I bought it.
    Can you help me?

    • Nikita

      Before I recommend anything, I really want to stress that I have no experience with this application of the Dremel tool and what follows are just my best guesses. Please be very careful when trying anything new on your dog!

      Upon hearing “metal drum”, my first thought was of the high-speed cutter, but I’d be very hesitant to use that on anything alive! Would an abrasive point – possibly diamond – or a grinding stone be more suitable? With any of the above, though, there is a high risk of excessive heating that will hurt the dog. If sanding disks are too weak for the job, perhaps a sanding drum would work better? This seems like the safest option to me.

      Would be great if other readers could weigh in on this!

  29. Mama DaVinci

    Dremel needs to hire you! Clearly, if customers need to scour the Internet In search of basic information that should be included in the documentation or on their website, Dremel is dropping the ball. Thank you for your very valuable post.

  30. SJ

    Great post, thank you. Just wanted to share my recent experience as a new Dremel 400 user on trying to clean up and sharpen a (slightly) rusty stainless steel diving knife with a 4/65 kit – sadly, before reading this post:

    – Agree with previous posters – Dremel could do a lot more to produce more accessible guides to usage of accessories.
    – Yep, the 511 abrasive buff is a shedder. Everywhere. And the one I used (whichever that was) is now a shadow of its former self. Agree it should be considered a consumable. But it was the most effective at removing surface rust without scratching the surrounding metal. A bit too powerful for the surrounding rubber at the hilt/handle join, which it quickly melted.
    – 407 drum was quite good at rough sharpening the knife edge but too aggressive for rust removal – scratched the metal on the flat.
    – DItto 85422 which ground away quite a bit on the shaped edges. Wouldn’t use for fine work again.
    – The 414/429 polishing felts had little effect on the blade without polishing compound, but did tidy up the burred plastic quite well. Will try with compound in due course.
    – The extension cable is awesome for getting into nooks and crannies the main tool can’t, but it needs regular breaks to prevent overheating. Also, in an ideal world the main unit would be kept above the cable to ensure the internal (green) cable lubricant stays within the cable and doesn’t leak out onto the collet.

    Still a work in progress, trial and error, before I get to work on the main task (maintaining up my international traditional knife/dagger/machete collection), so any experience from users on this kind of task welcomed.

  31. Katherine

    Abranet sanding sheets do not clog, last forever. I cut them in circles to fit the flat grinding disks for metal (which I never use) then gorilla glue the cut sanding sheets to them. The abranet comes in all grits. This solves the flat sanding problem for me. No screw in the middle and no cloging. I have been using one for months for fine detail and have not replaced yet. When I do I will just pry off the gorilla glue and put another abranet on. I made a variety in different sizes and grits. I get the abranet at Arizona Gourds on line. Works for me.

  32. Trøy

    Just bought a “Dremel 8220” which comes with the 28 accessories. But I find it strange and annoying that the “getting started booklet” didn’t contain any guide explaining the function of each tool bit. So each time I need to use a new accessory they expect us to go online and search the tool number to figure out the purpose of each tool bit?

    • Nikita

      Indeed, they don’t include a lot of info. Their own website also has only basic technical details about each accessory. It would be great if they had a library of articles & videos, but for the time being we just have to do with googling and trial-and-error.

  33. Cassandra

    Thank you so much for this! I’ve used a Dremel for years, but certain bits I’ve never used. Now they have purpose! Thanks again!

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